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Triptych

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The silk industry in 14th century Florence

The Daddi triptych portrays a number of luxurious silk textiles. In the early 14th century the Italian silk industry was concentrated in Venice, Genoa and Tuscany (with Lucca being the centre of production). Although from the 13th century there was a silk trade in Florence, its thriving wool trade was more dominant.

However, the Florentine Silk Guild capitalised on the political instability in parts of Italy by allowing craftsmen from other cities to work in Florence. Following the sacking of Lucca in 1315, a number of silk workers and goldsmiths moved to Florence where they were provided with workshops by the Guild. The expertise of these migrant workers was a significant factor in the development of the silk industry in Florence.

Until the end of the 14th century, Florentine silk manufacturers were dependent on importing from the East the raw materials of silk production - the eggs and cocoons of the silkworms - together with large consignments of mulberry leaves upon which the silkworms fed. As the industry became more prosperous and additional supplies of raw materials were needed, the cultivation of mulberry trees in Tuscany was actively promoted. The climate suited the trees and the success of this venture led to agents from other silk manufacturing cities coming to Florence to purchase silkworms, cocoons, raw silk and mulberry leaves.

Cloth of Honour

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Silk craftswoman at work: warping

Anon (Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Florence)

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